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How to fix a soggy compost pile

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Just when you’re looking forward to using your over-wintered compost for spring planting, it can be a soggy dense mess, and difficult to spread evenly in garden beds. A few simple measures can help restore your compost in time for spring garden use.

By Eartheasy Posted Mar 22, 2010

soggy-compost As winter’s grip loosens with each warming day, gardeners awake to the early spring with hope and vision for the growing season ahead. Seed packets are set out, potting trays are filled with planting mix and set on windowsills and counters wherever the sun can reach them. The garden beds, depleted from last year’s crops and winter rains which wash away some nutrients, are ready for the most valued additive you can give them – compost.

Unfortunately, it is all too common for gardeners to find their early spring compost to be a sodden, soggy mass of partially decomposed matter which looks to be unusable for months to come.

A soggy compost pile is usually caused by a combination of factors: poor aeration, too much moisture, and an imbalance between carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich materials.

The typical backyard composter does well at converting kitchen and yard waste into compost during summer and fall, when carbon-rich materials are readily available. But over winter, the new additions to the compost are mostly kitchen food wastes which are nitrogen-rich and have high moisture content. A healthy compost needs much more carbon matter than nitrogen, but carbon-rich materials are less available in winter. If the compost is not turned regularly, available carbon sources such as leaves and dried grass clippings can mat together, further reducing aeration and slowing the composting process.

A soggy compost can be restored in time for use in spring if you take a few simple measures in late winter/early spring. Here are some suggestions to remedy the situation:

1. Cover any open compost pile.

A compost pile should be moist but not soggy. Unless you live in a very dry climate, your compost pile should be covered, especially before the spring rains. If your compost is on the ground, drainage should be provided. A shallow trench can be dug to lead runoff away from the compost pile.

2. Add fine carbon material which will decompose quickly.

Adding carbon-rich materials will absorb some of the excess moisture in your compost and help restore the carbon/nitrogen balance needed for composting to occur. A simple rule of thumb is to use one-third nitrogen and two-thirds carbon materials. For a list of nitrogen and carbon materials commonly used for composting, click here. Bulky carbon materials, however, take longer to decompose. To revitalize a soggy compost for use in the next month or two, choose finer carbon-rich materials which will break down quickly. Here are some suggestions:

rake-thatchLawn thatch – You can do a double service of aerating your lawn while improving your compost by using lawn thatch. Use a steel rake, or a thatching rake, to comb through your lawn and pull out excess thatch. Thatch is very fine and dry, and breaks down easily. It helps to absorb excess moisture in your composter, and “fluffs up” the composting materials. This promotes aeration which is critical to the composting process.

Clean sawdust – Very high in carbon, sawdust is a bulking agent that promotes aeration, and therefore, drying of compost materials. Be careful not to compost any sawdust or wood that has been “pressure treated” or otherwise treated with a chemical preservative. Likewise, avoid sawdust from chainsaws which use petroleum-based chain oil. Avoid cedar, cypress, redwood and juniper sawdust as they deter decomposition. Take care to sprinkle the sawdust in layers, or turn the compost while adding, so as not to discourage aeration.

duffPine needles, forest duff – The fine bits of brown matter on the forest floor are carbon-rich and will help aerate the compost. Pine needles are acidic so we usually add lime when using pine needles. These materials are not as absorbent as sawdust.

peat-mossPeat moss – While peat moss does not affect the C/N ratio, it is highly moisture absorbent and helps to balance the moisture level of compost.

Straw – Straw is not always available in the spring, but it is an excellent addition to the compost and very effective at promoting aeration. If you use straw, make sure it’s seed free. Stables and barns are a good source for bedding straw, which also have nitrogen worked in.

leavesLast autumn’s leaves – If you saved leaves from last fall, they can be used to help restore a soggy compost pile. Shredded leaves work best. Care must be taken to turn the compost while adding leaves, or they will easily form mats which reduce aeration and slow the composting process down. Avoid using walnut leaves which contain a substance that inhibits the growth of many plants. Oak leaves take a very long time to break down because of their acidity and high levels of tannin. It is often a good idea to keep them separate to allow the main compost pile to finish sooner. Waxy leaves such as rhododendron, laurel, and lilac will take longer to break down and should be composted separately.

In our garden we store autumn leaves in the empty tomato cages, made using page wire. This is a good way of using the empty cages during winter, but we set the cages under the eaves of the garden shed to keep the leaves dry.

3. Turn or fork the compost

Now that you have added fine, dry carbon-rich materials to your compost, use a pitchfork or shovel to break up any large clumps of matted material. This is essential in any compost pile, since matting restricts aeration and slows down the composting process. If you have a tumbler–style composter this will be easy. Simply give the composter a spin each time you add materials. If you have a composter set on open ground this is more difficult. You can lift the composter off and let the composting material spill onto a tarp, where it is easy to mix in absorbent material. This can be shoveled into a wheelbarrow and applied to the garden beds, where it will continue to mellow.

4. Add a nitrogen activator

Finally, you can ‘reboot’ the composting process by adding a ‘hot’ source of readily available nitrogen. This is not essential, but will speed the process. If you have a stationery composter, take some finished compost from the bottom and add it to the top. If you don’t have finished compost, use garden topsoil. Other organic nitrogen activators include blood meal, manure, bonemeal, and alfalfa meal.

In early spring, gardeners are in a hurry to get finished compost. compostMoist and crumbly, finished compost spreads easily and can be used right away by newly planted starters. The above suggestions will speed the composting process, but if the compost is not quite ready when you need it, you can till the unfinished compost into the soil where it will finish off relatively quickly. And once you’ve been through the process of restoring a soggy compost pile, you’ll have a better understanding of how to maintain a compost pile through winter.

Browse Eartheasy’s line of natural lawn & garden supplies here, and our composters here.


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  • arunii

    I really like the pictures you used in this article !

  • Danielle M

    This is precisely the situation with my compost, and thank you for this article!! Using lawn thatch is an interesting idea. We have lots of that!

  • JJ

    My problem exactly! Thanks for the tips.

  • Brenda

    nice post. It really helps. Thank you.


  • Sarah

    So true! My compost is a mess! Thanks for this.

  • Janine

    My compost is heavy and wet and you described it exactly. I think shredded newspaper would also help to dry it. This fall I will definately be saving leaves to use through winter.This is a very helpful article and I appreciate the pictures, thank you!

  • femme2k

    can I use coir to make my compost lighter and drier? thanks

    • Greg Seaman

      You have to soak coir to expand it, then let it dry so it is more absorbant. I suppose coir would help dry your compost but it seems like an expensive way to go about it. I would try the other suggested methods first.

  • Sheryll Dixon

    I have the same problem, I have taken buckets of the smelly compost from the bottom, remixed it with newspaper and straw and added it back to the top with some top soil. I have remixed virtually all of it now so hopefully now I have a new bin I can leave it to work it’s magic

  • Cathy Frank

    thank you! This makes me feel much better. I took the bottom wet, clumpy compost and spread it all over my beds hoping it will dry and be fine in a month to transplant my starts. It was tough going getting it out of the bottom of a packed down Earth Machine – I def see the virtue of getting a second composter, so next year I can let one complete its magic all at once! : )

  • Sphagnum moss is the least decomposed of the general categories of peat. It has the highest water-holding capacity of the peats; holding up to 60% of its volume in water, so it will help absorb excess compost moisture.
    We try to use peat moss at a minimum since it is a limited resource. Dried grass clippings, dried leaves and forest duff also help absorb excess compost moisture, though probably not as effective as peat.

  • Wanda Young

    Awesome…..I googled “my compost is too wet” and got this…..exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for the excellent advise! I am also going now to buy 2 more composters! 🙂

    • Thanks Wanda! With compost tumblers you can rotate them upwards and open the lids, and leave them that way for the day to let excess moisture evaporate. This also helps.

  • David H

    Much appreciated info. Starting my own compost in “Celebration” of World Overshoot Day.

  • Chris Macdonald

    Hey does anyone no about composter toilets and how to add this material to your composting, the draw backs, problems, pros and benefits and also what would happen if you put all of your proteins and eggshells into a big metal barel and filled it with water and let it decompose and then add that water to composters to keep it moist? I know, lots of question.

    • We are believers of the value of humanure in improving soil, just like any well-cured compost. This concept is not yet ready for general acceptance, understandably.
      The protein “tea” you describe sounds interesting, but you could add it directly to your soil. The compost likely doesn’t need more moisture.

      • Chris Macdonald

        cool, but any tips on how to make sure their is no disease transfer or should I just compost for an extra year? How far the compost pile must be away form the home in order to be sanitary? And thanks for the informations about the tea, very helpful.

        • If your compost is working properly there should be no concern about transfer of disease. We don’t put any leaves in our compost that come from our fruit trees since they may harbor disease or insect pests, but otherwise there should be no problem.
          And assuming you are using a compost tumbler or other sealed composter, it can be located close to the home since there should be no foul odors. You want the composter fairly nearby since you make so many trips to the composter. We have one of our compost tumblers within 30′ of the back door.

          • Chris Macdonald

            yep, thanks. that helps

  • lookup shredded ramial wood or “bois raméal fragmenté” in French terms and see how to build soil using shredded green hardwood twigs, preferably leaves and all. I’m composting it with some wood ashes. That’s it; in about 4 months you can mix it in and use it as mulch as well for a fast soil generation.

    • Very interesting. I’ll check it out as you suggest. Thanks for your idea on this.

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