Blog > Organic Garden > Cedar vs. Recycled Plastic vs. Composite Raised Garden Beds RSS

Cedar vs. Recycled Plastic vs. Composite Raised Garden Beds

Raised Garden Beds in the Eartheasy Store

Join the Eartheasy Community

Sign up for our Newsletter:

* indicates required

These three materials offer different advantages to suit varying gardening needs.

By Posted Apr 9, 2014

raisedbeds01-top-image Raised garden beds have become very popular in home and commercial gardens as gardeners learn of their many advantages. But the wide selection of models can be confusing to an aspiring gardener. We’ve used them all in our own gardens, and have years of track records to help you decide on the ideal bed for your garden.

Most raised beds available today are made of cedar, recycled plastic or a composite material using wood flour and polypropylene. Although you can fashion a raised bed out of other materials such as heavy timbers, landscape blocks or water-filled plastic, commercially available raised beds usually stick to tried and true materials, and designs which are easy for a gardener to assemble. Here below are comparisons of the three primary types of raised beds.

Cedar Raised Beds


Garden beds and planters have been traditionally made using one of several varieties of cedar. Cedar is a premium wood characterised by its natural resistance to rot and its ability to hold up well to the extremes of weather. Available in a variety of species, such as Western Red Cedar, Atlantic White Cedar, Yellow Cedar, Port Orford Cedar and Juniper, cedar is the wood of choice for patio decking, fencing, outdoor furniture and many styles of garden raised beds.


– Beautiful. Many gardeners consider the aesthetic appeal of their gardens to be as valuable as the harvested crops. Without doubt, an attractive garden feeds the soul. Wood is a natural material, and lends itself perfectly for garden beds which complement the natural beauty of the plantings.
– Weather and rot resistant. Cedar contains “extractive” chemicals, which make the wood resistant to decay. Second-growth cedar is just as rot resistant as old-growth cedar, but there should be no sapwood present in the boards, since the sapwood will rot readily. (Sapwood is the outer wood of the tree and appears milky white in contrast to the red-brown of the heartwood.)
– Easy to work.
Woodworkers enjoy working with cedar because it is stable, once dry, and does not split readily at the ends. Pre-drilling is not required for simple raised bed construction.
– Relatively lightweight. Compared to other woods, cedar is relatively lightweight. This makes it easier to bring home, carry to the garden and assemble.
– Biodegradable. At the end of its lifespan, a cedar bed can be left in a low spot of your yard to slowly melt into the earth. Or the usable parts of the wood can be split into smaller pieces and used for garden stakes and trellises.


– Color turns silver-grey, unless finished. Cedar left untreated will fade in color to a silver-grey. Depending on local sunlight conditions, this usually takes 2 – 3 years. The outside of the beds can be treated with an exterior finish such as Tung Oil Finish, which will brighten and preserve the original cedar color. If you wish to apply such a finish, it is recommended to do this before the beds are assembled and crops are planted.

raisedbeds03-cedar-color – Shorter lifespan vs. recycled plastic. It is difficult to predict how long a cedar raised bed will last since there are variables such as the type of cedar used, the soil conditions in your garden, and the weather patterns of different regions. In dry regions such as the Southwest, cedar will last a very long time. In the rainy Pacific Northwest, the wood may retain moisture for longer periods which eventually creates the conditions for rot and deterioration. However, there are inexpensive and non-toxic wood stabilizers such as Eco Wood Treatment which are effective at creating a moisture barrier and thus preserving the wood and increasing its lifespan. Bear in mind that this and similar treatments will also change the color of the board to a silver-grey. However, stains are available with these treatments which can impart different shades of color to the wood.

When treating cedar with a preservative such as Eco Wood Treatment, treat the wood on both sides and all edges with a liberal application. Once the bed is filled with soil it is too late to apply this treatment, since rot in cedar beds commonly begins on the inside of the boards, where the wood is in contact with the moist soil.

Recycled Plastic Raised Beds

raisedbeds04-recycled-plastic HDPE (High-density polyethylene) plastic is the type used for most recycled plastic raised beds. This is an extremely durable and non-leaching plastic, commonly recycled from milk jugs, which is used not only for raised beds but for outdoor fixtures such as picnic tables, park benches, boardwalks, municipal waste bins and similar applications which must be durable, long-lasting and able to withstand the extremes of winter freezing and summer hot spells.


– Long lasting. Raised beds made of HDPE recycled plastic are commonly guaranteed for life. Manufacturers often cite a minimum life expectancy of 50 years.
– Durable. HDPE holds up well to use. If you ram into it with your wheelbarrow, it’s unlikely to result in any damage. Recycled HDPE plastic is resistant to cracking or chipping, even in extreme weather, hot or cold.
– Stable. Does not leach. Because HDPE is a stable material it does not leach any chemicals, toxic or otherwise, into the soil within the garden bed. Also, the ‘boards’ do not shrink, twist or warp over time. HDPE does not expand or contract during periods of freezing or extreme heat.
– Available in different colors. Dyes are added to the molten HDPE to provide several color choices for the recycled plastic boards.
– Smooth finish, retains color. The appearance of recycled plastic garden beds remains consistent even after years of exposure to weather. And because the color is added before the molten plastic is poured into its mold, the color runs through the boards, so if you should scratch the sides of the beds it hardly shows because the color is the same. Light scratches can even be repaired using a small propane torch to melt the scratch closed.
– Washable. Recycled plastic garden beds can be cleaned easily by washing the surface with a wet sponge or power washer. This may not be necessary for most gardeners, but since recycled beds are available in different color choices, some colors (especially white or grey) may lend themselves to cleaning at the end of each gardening season. Recycled plastics can also be considered an investment since they improve the perceived value of your property, so cleaning the beds can be of benefit especially if you plan to resell your home in the years ahead.
– Recyclable. Should the time come to dispose of your recycled plastic beds, after decades of use, the material is still 100% recyclable. HDPE plastic is so valuable that future recycling depots may even pay a premium for this material. HDPE plastic can be easily melted down and reused for new products.



– Heavy! When the package arrives at your door, have a few dollars on hand to tip the deliveryman and have a friend or two ready to help you move it to the garden. Recycled HDPE plastic is very heavy. However, once your bed is assembled and filled with soil the weight is no longer an issue.
– Not as much linear strength as wood.  If you pick up one end of a recycled plastic board, the board will sag more than its wooden counterpart. So recycled plastic beds need some form of cross-bracing to stiffen the sides and prevent them from bowing outwards. A common solution is the use of aluminum “flat-stock”, which is just a straight bar of aluminum drilled on each end and secured to either side of the bed. Any recycled plastic raised bed 6’ or longer should have cross-bracing.
– Expensive. Because of its inherent qualities of durability and long lifespan, HDPE is considered the highest quality of recycled plastics. The raw material is costly to manufacturers of raised beds, and this cost is reflected in the price. Recycled plastic raised beds are more expensive than cedar raised beds. However, it is easy to calculate the long-term savings with recycled beds, since they do not need to be replaced.

Composite Wood Raised Beds

raisedbeds06-composite Composite ‘timbers’ are made of a blend of wood fiber and UV-protected recycled polypropylene. They have a wood grain texture and earth brown color. They are designed to be used with flanged corner joints which can be stacked to make the bed any height in increments of 5.5”. These anchor and stacking are made of durable high-impact recycled plastic resin.


– Lightweight. The composite timbers are very light. They are hollow boards with a central stiffener. These boards are very easy to lift and assemble.
– Easy to assemble/disassemble. Because the composite ‘timbers’ are lightweight, and since screws are used to attach the timbers to the anchor/stacking joints, these beds are easy to disassemble and reassemble without damaging the materials. If you move to a new home, you can bring your raised beds too.
– Uniform, natural look. Composite timbers have a wood grain imprint, and at a casual glance give the appearance of solid wood. But unlike natural wood, there is no variation is color or texture and there are no knots.
– Weather and rot resistant.
– Washable.
The smooth finish lends itself to an easy clean with the hose. A light spray removes surface dust; any heavier buildup can be sponged off. Abrasive cleaners or scrubbies should not be used or they may scratch the finish.
– Can be reconfigured or expanded. The composite wood/corner joint system lends itself to expansion. It’s easy to add a layer of timbers to make a taller bed, and because the corner joint flanges are hinged, they can be swiveled. This enables you to design many different shapes of garden beds, using either straight or curved sections of composite timber


– The hollow boards can be damaged. You need to be careful with the wheelbarrow and shovel because these beds will mark, or even crack, if hit hard enough by a heavy tool. Take special care when using the weedeater, or the plastic whip may scuff the bottom edges of the composite bed.
– Taller, longer beds may bow outwards. As a raised bed is taller and longer, the increased weight puts pressure on the sides and can bow them outwards.
– Lightweight construction. Some reviewers feel the material is flimsy and the corner screws are not well anchored, but most reviews are favorable. Once the beds are assembled, however, they do hold together and look good.
– Some color fading occurs over time. These timbers do have a protective UV coating which provides stability to the finish for years of outdoor exposure. However, over time there will be some fading to the most sun exposed surfaces.

And the winner is …

Well, you knew there wouldn’t be a clear winner! All three of these style of raised beds are worthy of their place in the market. In our garden we use traditional cedar beds, 12’ to 16’ long and 12” to 24” tall. This looks great in our homestead setting. But in a commercial garden or garden center, the recycled beds make a lot of sense because they hold up to heavy use, occasional abuse and still look like new after a quick wash. And creative gardeners will appreciate the myriad design styles available with the composite bed system.


Posted in Organic Garden Tags
  • Sarah Heyward

    Do you know anything about the Corro steel raised garden beds? I read that they can be coated in bpa …

    • Sorry, we have no information about that brand of raised beds.

  • Yes, the composite timbers are made using recycled polyethylene and wood flour/fiber. They have been developed for gardening and are stable from any leaching to the garden beds.

    • sheila h

      Thank you Greg! One more question, would using composite timber be kosher with organic gardening?

      • Yes. The composite beds won’t compromise your organic soil.

  • Jan R

    I want to get an HDPE raised planter box for my deck. Do you think it will be too heavy? Is it significantly heavier than wood? Thank you for making the above information available!

    • HDPE is heavier than wood but the difference is marginal in a planter box. Your deck will easily support this.

  • It sounds like you are overwatering, though 10 minutes every second day seems very modest. Otherwise, you have a drainage issue which should be easy to correct. A couple thoughts:
    – is your soil too light, does it drain too fast? Most gardens have the opposite condition, but maybe you have too much peat in the soil. If the runoff smells, you may be overdoing it with the manure and compost.
    – if the puddle is outside the bed, on one side, then you need to dig down the inside of the bed to see what is blocking drainage – you may have submerged rock or shallow hard pan. Your bed should drain straight down with no water migrating to the side.
    – for the puddle in the pathway, use a pitchfork to poke some drainage holes to draw in the water.
    – the cement sounds like a bad idea. It is only covering the problem, and if it persists your cement will crack. Dig down the problem side of the bed and find out what is preventing drainage. That should be easy to find and fix.

    • Karthik Ganesan

      Thanks Greg, I just realized that my bed was built as below.
      1-We did not take any grass out, it was dead (or about to die)
      2- We put weed barrier sheet top of grass, then we put papers on top of weed barrier sheet,
      3- Then compost and soil.
      Do you think will this block the drain straight down?

      • The weed barrier and newspaper will eventually break down, but sounds like that is the problem. They may be causing the water to migrate to the side, hence the puddles.
        There’s no need for weed barriers with raised beds, assuming the bed is at least 8″ tall or taller. It is helpful to first break up the grass and underlying soil to clear it of rocks and debris. This soil wil be used by your plants as the roots go down deeper than your bed. If the problem persists, you may want to pull the weed barrier and paper.

  • binkyboo

    If i use left over cedar fence boards to make compost and veggie bins. (24ins high) Do I have to treat the wood with stain or something?
    thank you.

    • It’s best to leave the cedar fence boards unstained and untreated when used for compost bins or raised garden beds.

  • William trickett

    Hi. I’m setting up a raised bed in my garden in our area we have a lot of clay. Previously there was a cement base for a shed so there’s quite a bit of rubble in the ground. It doesn’t flood. Would I need to put down a sheet between the clay ground and my organic bed?
    I intend for the bed to be at least 6″ deep so it’s way above the bad ground. Thanks for your help in advance.

    • My advice is to dig into the rubble-strewn ground and pull out the big pieces. Use a shovel or pry bar to break up the subsoil best as you can to a depth of 12″ or more.
      Then set you bed on top and fill with soil. Putting a liner beneath is not recommended, as you want the plant roots to access the subsoil, where they will find trace minerals, garden amendments which have migrated downwards, and drainage.
      A 6″ bed is shallow. We prefer to use beds with a minimum 11″. With a 6″ bed it’s even more important that you make use of the subsoil as described.

      • William trickett

        Thanks very much for your feedback greg

  • Kiran

    Hi Greg, i am planning to create a raised bed with TREX composite decking boards. Is that composite material different from the composite material for decking boards? Will there be any chemicals leaching? Those decking boards are heavy and not light like you mentioned. I chose that material, thinking they will be long lasting and rot tolerant and also on clearance (still expensive – $20 for 5-1/4′,12ft board) at HomeDepot.

    • I’m not sure what the TREX boards are made of, but sounds like HDPE recycled plastic since the boards are heavy, and expensive. You could check into that. But they will likely be fine for use as raised beds, and will last a long time.

  • Lisa Webber

    Hello All. .. I would like to construct my own beds from cedar. My local HD and Lowes carry only a very limited line of cedar boards. Anyone have a suggestion of where I might find cedar boards outside of the Big Box arena? I live 40 miles due north of Atlanta GA. Thanks, Meep

  • Hi Tracy,
    We used to sell vinyl raised beds until we learned the environmental implications of vinyl. We now discourage the use of vinyl in products where possible.
    To treat an unfinished cedar bed you have a few options.
    1. use a nontoxic treatment like EcoWood Treatment which forms a moisture barrier protecting the wood. This turns the wood to a grey color. Some gardeners use this only on the inside of the beds, since beds deteriorate from the inside.
    2. Tung OIl Finish – this has chemical dryers and additives and needs recoating every few years. It will make the cedar look bright, as when it’s wet. Penofin is a similar product. I don’t know about Ecofin.
    3. Do nothing. Cedar is naturally rot resistant and will gradually fade to a grey color in a few years.

  • Russell Bowman

    Can any one mention what brand names to search for to buy composite wood and plastic planter elements?

  • Dwight

    Good day,

    I am wondering if you sell just the HDPE Boards in no specific configuration?

    I have a significant slope I need to deal with and a pre-made rectangle is not going to do it. I have to DIY. I have search for HDPE boards, but I can only find it in sheets and none of them are long enough for my purpose.

    Thank you in advance

    • We don’t carry individual HDPE boards, but you can call our customer service line at 888 451 6752 and ask if they can put you in touch with our supplier for HDPE beds.

      • Dwight

        Thank you Greg

  • Kwazi Hlela

    Hi. I was wondering if any of you guys have thought of using an old wooden deck to build beds?

    • Sure, old deck boards could be used to make a raised garden bed, just be sure the boards haven’t been treated.

      • Kwazi Hlela

        Thank you for the response Greg. I cannot be sure of them being treated or not. I moved into the home a year ago. The deck is falling apart, with some boards literally crumbling under my feet. So I was thinking of maybe ripping it up and using the boards that aren’t falling apart for beds.

  • ullman garrett

    Greg, Any information on life expectancy of composite boards?

    • We have one composite board raised bed that is about ten years old. It still does the job but is somewhat faded from all the direct sun, and scratched on the bottoms where the weed-eater scuffed it. These beds should last the longest in dryer regions.
      For longevity it’s hard to beat the recycled plastic raised beds. We have one installed for about 8 years now and it can be hosed off to still look new. There is no degradation of the material.

  • susanrudnicki

    I have been through TWO sets of cedar raised beds, sold by NaturalYards, of Ashland OR. They were guaranteed for 10 years, were supposed to be very rot resistant and the website information wrote they were made of Port Orford cedar. After my installation of four, 4 X 6 ft, 2 ft high beds proved to be rotting into compost after just 4 years, in Los Angeles, I pleaded with the company to replace them according to the guarantee. The company admitted they erred in the description of the source wood—it was not old growth wood (which no longer exists, having been all cut down long ago) but was from second growth forests. So, I disagree with your contention that ” Second-growth cedar is just as rot resistant as old-growth cedar, but there should be no sapwood present in the boards” Sapwood or not, the stuff rots readily. After much dickering, they agreed to send me a second set of beds for the cost of shipping—originally they wanted to charge me the full price with just 25% off!! In spite of the guarantee principles….It is now four years since the first set of beds was replaced. The second set is rotting as badly as the first—the joining pins holding the corners and mid-sides have completely fallen out from the boards rotting out. These boards WERE supposedly protected with a rot treatment coating. This whole experience has been very depressing. I am now back to trying to figure out a replacement so I can get on with raising food again. The company won’t respond to me now that the second set is a failure. I have written them. The website is full of glowing reviews from NEWLY installed sets, NONE are from folks having a number of years experience with the product. Probably a lot of others like me, with rotting cedar compost instead of garden beds.

    • I am sorry you experienced this, it is disappointing for you as well as the family business that makes these beds.
      In our garden we have two beds made by the same company and they are intact and in service for about 10 years now. I bought replacement boards but they are still in the shed as I haven’t needed them. It makes me wonder what is going on in your garden. Rot can be caused by overwatering then covering the beds in plastic, which some gardeners do to suppress weeds in the off season. And for the pins to fall out, that is really odd since the outer corners are exposed to air and would be the last part to rot.
      I am not discounting your frustration. However, your experience is unusual and I suspect some local condition or practice is contributing to the problem.

      • susanrudnicki

        Hi, thanks for writing. I will reply within your note for clarity.

        I am sorry you experienced this, it is disappointing for you as well as the family business that makes these beds.
        YES, I would prefer to patronize a small biz, but this is a failure way beyond any expectation of performance.

        In our garden we have two beds made by the same company and they are intact and in service for about 10 years now.
        WHERE do you live? As I stated originally, I am in Los Angeles. VERY dry most of the year. We had a “drought buster” last Winter—16 inches in 6 mos! Bet you get way more than me.

        I bought replacement boards but they are still in the shed as I haven’t needed them. It makes me wonder what is going on in your garden. Rot can be caused by overwatering then covering the beds in plastic, which some gardeners do to suppress weeds in the off season.
        WE have no “off season”—again, I live in Southern California, growing all year ’round. Where do you live? My beds are watered with drip tubing—water is very precious and expensive here. The beds are never hand watered, but on a timer, set to the needs of the dryness of air and time of year and crop growing needs. In a attempt to ward off contact with the wet inner soil, I lined the 2nd set of beds with a impermeable plastic paneling. Made no difference from the first set—they rotted out in 4 years.

        And for the pins to fall out, that is really odd since the outer corners are exposed to air and would be the last part to rot.
        I CAN send photos of this crumbling of structure, if you want to see.
        I am not discounting your frustration. However, your experience is unusual and I suspect some local condition or practice is contributing to the problem.
        I SUSPECT my beds were made of sap wood, reportedly very prone to rot. Since I am the only one doing the labor (and I am a full time beekeeper, making my living with bees) this second set-back is really depressing. I am 61 yrs, and not as endlessly energetic as I was.

        • We live in the damp northwest. After reading your comment I went out in the garden to take a closer look. The beds are fine. (We’ve been gardening in cedar raised beds for almost 40 years and they’ve all lasted at least 10 years.)
          You may be right about getting bad wood, sapwood, although the suppliers would likely be able to identify sapwood and throw it out. We haven’t heard other similar complaints. No need to send photos, your comments are sufficient.
          Your idea to line the beds with plastic may seem practical but if moisture gets between the plastic liner and the wood then it will rot for sure, and quickly. But in your dry environment, with drip irrigation, you probably ensured this was not the case.
          I’m sorry you are experiencing this and suggest you phone the supplier to discuss this further.

          • susanrudnicki

            Well, I thought of putting the plastic panels in place after the first set rotted out, showing especially bad decomposition from the inner surface, next to the soil. Some of the boards were down to a inch thick and deeply furrowed. Again, the suppliers were not very eager to honor the decomposition after the first set failed in just 4 years. We wrangled over the language of the warranty, I was urged to pay a discounted price, (but not free replacement, as per the warranty) I ended up paying just the shipping. Also, as I mentioned earlier, the availability of any less than happy reviews of the products, after a period of a few years, is never going to come to light. All posted reviews on the website are recent installations—hardly a track record. Christine, the woman at NaturalYards who I dealt with, DID SAY and WRITE to me, they have had complaints about rotting failures. It is one reason they scaled back the original guarantee period from when I bought my first set. You may not know about that.

  • Mike

    I know this is an old discussion, but I read that HDPE leaches estrogenic chemicals. What have you heard about this?

    • Mike, we haven’t heard a word about this. HDPE is considered a stable recycled plastic.

Blog > Organic Garden > Cedar vs. Recycled Plastic vs. Composite Raised Garden Beds