Simple steps for choosing, planting and caring for clematis with confidence.
We came to clematis late in our growing careers, but no sooner had we planted our first cultivar (a perky Clematis armandii) than we realized we shouldn’t have waited so long. The plant’s glossy leaves and delicate blooms transformed the trellis next to our house–-and stayed green all year long.
While not all clematis are evergreens (more on that below), they do bring elegance and vertical interest to the garden no matter what the variety. With hundreds available in a spectacular range of colors, shapes and bloom times, clematis is a showstopper for any garden. Read on to learn the basics of growing and tending clematis.
Understanding clematis
Clematis is a genus of about 300 species in the buttercup family (Ranunculaceae). Native to different parts of the world, this showy plant comes in many forms, from vigorous climbers to small shrubs and even ground covers. Gardeners broadly divide clematis plants into three pruning groups based on their blooming time and growth habits:
- Spring-blooming (group 1): These clematis bloom on old wood and require minimal pruning.
- Repeat bloomers (group 2): These varieties flower on both old and new wood and require light pruning.
- Late-blooming (group 3): These late varieties bloom on new growth and need hard pruning in spring to generate new shoots.
Understanding which group your clematis belongs to is key to proper care.
Choosing the right clematis for your garden
Given all the varieties available, how do you choose which clematis is best for you? We like to start by considering climate, available space and personal preferences for flower color, size and bloom time.
For example, do you want early spring blooms or something that will give you continuous color? Are you looking for a compact variety for your favorite containers, or something that reaches 10-20 feet or more?
We’ve found a combination of compact (for our raised planters with trellises) and classic plants work well if you have the space. Beginner-friendly clematis varieties include the following varieties.
Clematis montanna
This vigorous, early-blooming variety grows in zones 6-9. A profusion of pale pink to white blooms decorate delicate leaves from spring to summertime.
Clematis Nelly Moser
This long blooming grows in zones 4-11 and sports a characteristic pink bar down the center of each petal. Blooms come from the previous years’ stems, so take care when pruning. Follow the instructions below for best results.
Clematis viticella hybrids
Clematis viticella come in a wide range of colors, including pink, purple and blue. They are known to be hardy in zones 4 to 11, resistant to wilt, are relatively long blooming. Clematis viticella can reach heights of 15 feet if left to range.
Clematis Jackmanii
This classic purple flowering vine blooms on stems made the same season, offering a long bloom time through the summer months. While some types of Jackmanii are a little more restrictive (zones 5 to 9), many are hardy through zones 4 to 11. Be sure to check with your local nursery for regional cultivars. With good care and pruning, the Jackmanii reach 8 to 12 feet in height.
Planting clematis
Site selection is the most important part of growing clematis. This is one plant that loves to grow with its head in the sun and feet in the shade. That means full sun for the foliage and flowers, with roots that stay cool and shaded.
We achieve this by planting clematis behind low-growing, compact shrubs or perennials that won’t provide too much competition for nutrients and root space. Hostas are one good example for root areas of semi-shade. If planting in full sun, we like pairing clematis with boxwood, shrub roses or peonies.
Most clematis also need vertical support, such as a trellis, fence, arbor or obelisk (for compact varieties). Be sure to choose your location where the height of available support matches your plant’s requirements.
Soil preparation
Clematis prefers well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter. A neutral to slightly alkaline pH is ideal. If you have clay or sandy soils, add compost or well-rotted manure to improve your soil’s quality.
Planting steps
Plant your chosen clematis in spring or fall by following these steps:
- Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the root ball.
- Add compost or slow-release fertilizer to the bottom.
- Position the plant so the crown is 2-3 inches below soil level.
- Backfill soil, water well, and mulch around the base to retain moisture and keep roots cool.
- If the plant has already sprouted, attach vines to a trellis or other support to guide its growth. Spread growth across the trellis surface for fuller, even coverage.
Related: 12 Trellis-Perfect Plants for Small Gardens
Watering and feeding and clematis
Clematis needs consistent moisture, especially in the first year. We like to water deeply once or twice a week using automatic drip irrigation to ensure the moisture reaches root level. During dry periods, we increase the volume based on the temperature and amount of moisture in the soil. If unsure, you can gauge your soil’s moisture using a soil moisture meter.
To keep your plants healthy, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring. During blooming, switch to a higher-potash fertilizer monthly to encourage flowers. Mulch annually with compost or leaf mold.
Seasonal maintenance
Remove dead or weak stems in early spring. Deadhead faded blooms if desired (mainly for aesthetic reasons). Check ties and supports regularly to ensure they don’t restrict growth.
How to prune clematis
A good pruning is essential for the health, shape and blooming of most clematis varieties, but how you prune varies by the groups mentioned above.
Group 1
This group includes varieties like Clematis montana and Clematis armandii. Prune lightly right after flowering to shape or control size. Avoid heavy pruning, but don’t delay. Waiting to prune this group risks losing next year’s flowers.
Group 2
This group includes Nelly Moser. In late winter or early spring, remove dead or weak stems and prune remaining stems back to a strong pair of buds. A second light prune after the first flush may encourage more blooms.
Group 3
This group includes Jackmanii and viticella hybrids and others that bloom on new growth. Prune hard in early spring to 12-18 inches above ground, just above a pair of healthy buds.
Once you know your variety’s group and pruning time, be sure to use clean, sharp tools. When pruning, cut just above a pair of healthy leaf buds. Regardless of group, always remove dead, damaged or spindly stems at any time of year.
To train your plant, guide new shoots onto a trellis or support while cutting to maintain a tidy shape. Don’t worry if you make a mistake—-clematis plants are forgiving and resilient. If you don’t know the group, a safe approach is to prune lightly in early spring and observe how the plant responds. You won’t kill a clematis by pruning, but you might sacrifice some blooms for a season.
Common problems and solutions when growing clematis
While we haven’t found clematis particularly susceptible to pests and disease in our area, there are some common things to watch for no matter where you live.
- Aphids: Aphids like to attack so many different plants, we wrote a whole guide about dealing with them: An Abundance of Aphids. For a quick fix, spray with organic insecticidal soap or hose them off.
- Slugs/snails: We also have an organic guide to slug control. If the problem is isolated and the plants young, consider slug traps or diatomaceous earth.
- Clematis wilt: Although a plant pathogen called Calophoma clematidina can cause a sudden blackening of stems and wilting in large-flowered clematis varieties, this is uncommon in the home garden. Still, gardeners may experience wilting clematis plants. In our area, this is often attributed to slugs and other invertebrates grazing on the plant base. If you suspect C. clematidina, cut affected parts to the ground and dispose of them. Minimize root stress by cultivating soil deeply before planting and mulching the soil surface.
- Powdery mildew: A common problem among vegetable and ornamental plants, powdery mildew arises when the weather is warm (above 60 degrees) during the day and cooler but humid at night. The best way to prevent this problem is through good air circulation and healthy plants. If it does occur, use organic fungicides as needed.
- Yellowing leaves: This may indicate a nutrient deficiency or overwatering. Consider testing your soil using a home testing kit and cutting back on water if the soil feels permanently wet.
Key takeaways for growing success
Growing clematis is easier when you understand their unique preferences—and a few thoughtful practices can make all the difference. Here’s a recap of the points we find most important, to help you set your clematis up for long-term success.
Cool roots, warm tops
Clematis thrive when their roots stay cool and moist while the upper vine basks in full sun. Use mulch, groundcovers, or strategically placed stones to shade the base of the plant without crowding the stem.
Support early and often
Clematis need something to climb from the start—like a trellis, obelisk, or netting. Since they use their leaf stems to wrap around supports, choose structures that are thin enough (under ½ inch) for them to grip securely.
Water deeply, not frequently
Give clematis a thorough soak once or twice a week rather than frequent shallow watering. This encourages deep root growth and helps prevent stress, especially during hot, dry spells.
Don’t panic over slow starts
Clematis are known for their “sleep, creep, leap” growth pattern. In year one, they focus on root development; year two brings modest growth; by year three, you can expect a vigorous, flowering vine.
Know your pruning group
Pruning isn’t one-size-fits-all. Identify your clematis type (Group 1, 2, or 3) based on bloom time, and follow the appropriate pruning method to keep the vine healthy and blooming at its best.
Clematis rewards patience and care with stunning flowers that can transform any garden. With proper planting, feeding and pruning, we’ve enjoyed blooms from early spring to late fall. You can too!
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