A step-by-step guide to planting, growing and harvesting this delicate French favorite.
There’s something deeply satisfying about pulling a cluster of shallots from the soil in early summer — the reward for a few minutes of planting in the cool days of fall.
Often described as a cross between onions and garlic, shallots are surprisingly easy to grow. Compact, resilient and long-storing, they’re ideal for gardeners with limited space, raised bed gardens, or anyone looking to extend their harvest beyond the usual summer crops.
We first encountered shallots in our favourite kale salad recipe: sauteed and seasoned with a balsamic reduction, they were more delicate-tasting than onions and added a complex flavour to the meal. They also kept well in the pantry.
When we learned we could grow them during the dormant season, we became quick converts and never looked back.
Understanding shallots
If you’ve never seen a shallot, you’re not alone. Often used in French and Mediterranean cuisine, they’re not as common in North America as other members of the allium family, though many grocery stores carry them.
Resembling small, stretched onions, shallots are actually their own distinct species — Allium cepa var. aggregatum — and grow more like garlic, forming clusters from a single planted bulb. Their flavor is milder and sweeter than onions, with subtle hints of garlic.
Shallot varieties range from reddish to gray, featuring teardrop, round and elongated shapes. Unlike standard onions, they are well-suited to fall planting in milder growing zones. This is because the bulbs will establish roots before winter, rest through the cold months, and burst into growth as soon as spring arrives.
Shallots belong to the allium family. Clockwise from top left: purple onion, shallot, garlic, yellow onion. Photo by Nick Fewings.
Choosing the right spot for growing shallots
We’ve found that shallots thrive in sunny, well-drained beds with soil that stays loose and fertile throughout the growing season. Aim for a well-drained spot that receives at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day.
Because shallots form clusters of small bulbs, heavy clay or compacted soil can stunt growth and ultimately lead to rot. Before planting, loosen the soil to a depth of 8–10 inches and mix in organic matter such as finished compost. A slightly acidic to neutral pH is ideal.
If your soil tends to stay wet or you’re gardening on a small patio, consider growing shallots in raised beds or deep containers filled with a high-quality container mix.
Planting shallots
Gardeners typically grow shallots in two ways: from sets or from seed. Many home gardeners prefer sets—small, pre-formed bulbs—because they establish quickly and are compatible with fall plantings. Growing from seed takes longer and is usually started indoors in mid to late winter.
Whichever you choose, you’ll need to consider your geographic area and the corresponding USDA growing zone. Gardens in zone 6 or higher are well suited to a fall planting of shallot sets or an early spring sowing of seeds or starter plants. Gardeners in zone 5 or lower can plant shallot sets outdoors one month before the first spring frost or start seeds indoors in mid winter for transplanting in early spring.
Fall planting of shallot sets
If they are not already divided, start by separating your shallots into individual sets, preserving the papery skins. Each set will grow into a cluster, so choose the healthiest and largest for planting.
Plant them pointed end up, just below the soil surface, spacing 6-8 inches apart, with rows roughly 12 inches apart to allow for air circulation and growing room.
If you’re planting in patio containers or raised beds, use a rich, well-draining potting mix and make sure containers are deep enough for bulb development—a minimum of 10 inches.
Shallot sets ready for planting. Photo by Dhivyaa Naraayani on Unsplash.
Sowing shallot seeds
If you’re keen to expand your seed stock or simply want to try growing shallots from seed, begin sowing in trays or small pots 10–12 weeks before your last expected spring frost. Cover lightly with a fine potting mix, keeping the soil consistently moist and warm until germination. This usually takes 7–14 days.
Once seedlings are 3–4 inches tall, gradually harden them off by exposing them to cooler, outdoor conditions over 5-7 days. Transplant them into the spring garden as clusters as soon as the soil can be worked. Space 4–6 inches apart in rows about 12 inches apart, just as you would with sets.
Since shallots grown from seed produce only a single bulb in their first season (unlike sets which produce clusters), there’s no need to thin to a single plant. Seed-grown shallots also take longer to mature, but they’re useful for expanding your stock of planting bulbs for future seasons.
Shallot transplants in the garden (Photo by Isabelle Tombleson on Unsplash).
Caring for your shallots
Once your shallots are in the ground, they’re among the easiest alliums to tend. Consistent moisture, good nutrition and protection from weeds and pests are all they need.
Keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged, especially during bulb formation in spring. A deep watering once or twice a week as the weather dries is usually enough, depending on rainfall. To help retain moisture, buffer cold temperatures and suppress weeds, apply organic mulch such as straw, shredded leaves, or compost around plants.
Shallots benefit from steady, moderate feeding. We like to work in a balanced organic fertilizer or material from our composters at planting time, then side-dress with compost or a nitrogen-rich amendment—like fish emulsion or alfalfa meal—when shoots are 4–6 inches tall. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers late in the season, which can encourage leafy growth at the expense of bulb size.
Weed regularly but gently, avoiding any disturbance to the developing bulbs.
Watch for common issues like onion maggots, thrips or fungal diseases in damp weather (see more below). Healthy soil and crop rotation are your best defense, but you can also protect young plants with row covers and improve airflow by spacing rows adequately.
Harvesting and curing
Shallots are ready to harvest when their tops begin to yellow, flop over and dry out—much like onions. This signals that the bulbs have finished growing and are starting to cure naturally in the soil. Choose a dry day to harvest and gently lift the clusters with a garden fork or hand trowel. Avoid pulling by the tops, which can damage the bulbs. Shake off excess soil but don’t wash them; a little dirt helps protect the papery skins during curing.
Lay the shallots out in a single layer in a warm, dry and well-ventilated space. Allow them to cure for 2–3 weeks, turning occasionally until the outer skins are crisp and the necks are completely dry. Proper curing is key to long storage and rich flavor.
Once cured, trim the roots and cut back the tops to about an inch. Store the bulbs in mesh bags, baskets or paper sacks in a cool and dry place with good airflow. Under these conditions, shallots can last six months or longer.
If you plan to replant some of your harvest, select the largest, healthiest bulbs for next season’s sets and store them separately until planting time. Home-saved shallots tend to adapt to local growing conditions over time, rewarding you with stronger crops each year.
Troubleshooting common problems
Even though shallots are hardy and low-maintenance, a few issues can arise. Knowing what to look for will help you keep your crop healthy and productive.
- Bulbs rotting in the ground: This often points to overly wet or compacted soil. Shallots prefer consistent moisture but not soggy conditions. Improve drainage by adding compost or planting in raised beds. Water only when the top inch of soil is dry.
- Small or underdeveloped bulbs: Crowding is a common culprit. Be sure to space sets or seedlings at least 6 inches apart so they have room to divide. Poor soil fertility can also lead to small bulbs, so mix in organic matter or apply a balanced, organic fertilizer at planting time.
- Plants bolting (sending up flower stalks): Bolting usually happens when temperatures fluctuate sharply in spring or if the bulbs experience stress from drought. Mulching and consistent watering help stabilize soil temperature and moisture, reducing the chance of premature flowering.
- Pests and diseases: Watch for onion maggots, thrips and fungal issues like white rot. Good garden hygiene—rotating crops, removing old plant debris and ensuring good airflow—helps prevent most problems. For organic control, floating row covers can deter insects. Neem oil or soap spray can be used if infestations persist.
Want to learn more about growing? Subscribe to our newsletter below for more information on sustainable living and gardening!
